In 1954, Tudor released the Oyster Prince Submariner 7922—the brand’s first ever dive watch. The latest addition to the brand’s collection, the Black Bay 54, harkens back to this early inventive with a 37mm case and a Manufacture movement.

The Black Bay 54 is a perfect example of “what goes around, comes around.” Watch sizes have been trending down for the better part of the last ten years, and have now reached a point where vintage sizing has become modern sizing. The classic proportions of that era now make sense again in a market clamouring for…well…less.

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Despite its vintage dimensions, make no mistake, the new Black Bay 54 is a contemporary timepiece of technical prowess. Boasting 200m of water resistance and a Manufacture Calibre in the MT5400, the BB54 is ready for adventure.

The Tudor Black Bay 54 is not exactly an overhaul. It is recognizably part of the family sired by the original Black Bay, and unmistakeably related to the BB58. However, there is more to it than just a simple resizing of its case. Its pared down bezel eschews graduated hash marks and conjures up images of those early days when the sport of SCUBA was in its infancy. There is also a lollipop seconds hand which has been plucked directly from the 1954 design—though it does hang on to its snowflake hour hand, which was a creation of the late sixties. The crown, though, appears to have undergone a winnowing and is much thinner than that of other models in the collection.

Under the sapphire crystal, we have a subtly domed satin, radial-brushed black dial with familiar gilt accents. The markers and hands have also been treated with Grade A Swiss Super-LumiNova.

The BB54 gets its own Manufacture Calibre MT5400, as well. It’s COSC-certified with a silicon balance spring, and a 70-hour power reserve. It also has a satin-brushed tungsten rotor with sand-blasted details. It boasts a tolerance range of 6 seconds (-2/+4) tested on a fully assembled watch.

Customers will have a choice between the stainless steel three-link “rivet-style” bracelet or a rubber strap. Both options are equipped both with TUDOR’s “T-fit” rapid adjustment clasp.

The Black Bay 54 starts at $3625USD. For more information, please visit the brand website.

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About the author

Brent Robillard is a writer, educator, craftsman, and watch enthusiast. He is the author of four novels. You can follow him on Instagram.

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