That a microbrand might wish to democratize the watch purchasing process—that is avoid markups while producing a quality product—is nothing new. What does, however, differentiate Lorier from other brands is that they are not fixed on collectors. Lorier, instead, has constructed their brand around the principle of the “one watch collection.”
In 2019, after a successful Kickstarter campaign, Aevum released its second automotive-inspired watch, the Advance. The Carbon Limited is the latest in this new series and maintains all of the automotive references of the original Advance. Its name refers to ignition timing, or the moment a spark plug fires during its compression stroke to provide more power.
From their initial role as disruptors, microbrands have created their own paradigm shift. And now, certain of these early enterprises are poised to enter the next level of watchmaking (if they haven’t already), establishing themselves simply as “contemporary brands.”
The Ambassador takes it lead from the Flieger tradition which put the Whitby Watch Co. on the map, but then banks hard right with more contemporary design cues. The lovely sweep of its traditional stainless-steel pilot-style case offers a choice of modern updates: a brash brushed silver or a deep black PVD.
The whisper of it conjures images of Cousteau, Marianna’s Trench, and the Trieste Bathyscape—in other words, the Aquastar invokes the Golden Age of maverick ocean exploration when divers pushed the limits of technology and sanity in plumbing the depths.
The Arrow Pilot Watch furthers the narrative which began with the company’s successful Intrepid Diver. While this first watch resurrected the memory of Sir William Stephenson—a WWII Canadian operative—the Arrow grounds itself in the most controversial moment of Canadian military aviation.
It is the platonic ideal of a vintage dive watch. It ticks all the boxes and leaves nothing wanting…once you’ve held it, if you didn’t know better, you’d swear to have come across a NOS version of a true vintage diver that had been waiting patiently in someone’s drawer for you to come along and claim it as your own.
The entry-level dive watch market is a ruthless one. Seikos abound at highly competitive pricing and legendary status. Orient divers have a cult following. And the Tissot Seastar 1000 and the Hamilton Khaki Navy Scuba will put you into a Swiss diver for under $1000USD. Simply put, a microbrand diver must make a lot ofContinue reading “On Spec: Dailos Waveform”
In some respects, The Windrose defies categorization. It is not a dive watch, in the traditional sense, though it enjoys 200 meters water resistance with a screw-down crown. With its dearth of legible numerals, it certainly isn’t a field or pilot’s watch. Its bezel does not have a tachymeter, diving increments, or a 24-hour GMT function. In fact, it’s fixed. But in a weird way, that’s what is so attractive about this piece. It’s not like anything else.
One of the more exciting microbrand launches on Kickstarter right now is the Ama Diver from Albany Watches. Clearly inspired by the skin diver aesthetic of the 1960s, the Ama is nonetheless a modern diver all its own.