Longines has been producing the Conquest Collection since 1954. Unlike the dive-oriented HydroConquest, the Conquest has always been a GADA-driven (Go anywhere, Do Anything) sports watch. This year, however, the brand has added a very motorsport-heavy chronograph to the line—the Conquest Automatic 2023.
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Largely redesigned from past Conquest models, the new chronograph feels both angular and compact. It employs straightforward pump pushers and a svelte integrated crown guard. Slightly larger than the three-hander—at 42mm—it has the sporty vibe of a dashboard indicator, recalling iconic chronos of the past like the Daytona, but with a more detailed and refined complexity in its dial elements.
The case is a mix of brushed and polished surfaces. The crown and display case back are screw-down. And the crystal is a flat piece of sapphire, treated with AR. The watch also offers up a respectable 100m of water resistance.
The fixed tachymeter bezel is fashioned from ceramic and will be highly resistant to scratches. In addition, it looks great when contrasted against the gold and silver dial variants featured here. Beyond these two colourways, the Conquest Automatic Chronograph is also available in a reverse panda, as well as a blue on blue. Despite its streamlined styling, the Conquest Automatic Chronograph is nonetheless a chunky piece at 14.3mm.
The first thing you might notice about the dial, if you are a Longines aficionado, is the distinct lack of Arabic numerals. The brand has opted, instead, for a discreet application of wedge-styled indicators. These bisect the recessed chapter ring that divides the dial from the outer minute track and angled rehaut.
The sharp contrast (in three of the models) between the sunray dial colour and the sub-registers strikes a nice balance between style and legibility. The lack of a date window will also please those who appreciate symmetry in their timepieces. Small, square printed plots at the end of each hour marker, in addition to the polished hands, have also been filled with Swiss-SuperLumiNova.
The chronograph comes standard on an H-link bracelet which matches the case in a mix of brushing and polish. It tapers significantly from 22m at the lugs to 16mm at the fold-over clasp.
Visible through the display case back is the Longines exclusive 4Hz L898.5. It features a silicon hairspring and a 59-hour power reserve. The module-style of this movement does, however, contribute to the overall thickness.
SPECS
Case | 316L Stainless Steel 42mm Diameter 14.3mm Thick 22mm Lug Width Screw Down Crown & Display Case Back Ceramic Tachymeter Bezel 100m Water Resistance |
Dial & Crystal | Sapphire Crystal /w AR Sunray Dial Applied Markers Dauphine Handset Sub-dials @ 3, 6, and 9 Super-LumiNova |
Movement | L898.5 Central Chronograph /w Running Seconds, 30 Minute Register & 12 Hour Counter 27 Jewels 28 800bph 59-Hour Power Reserve |
Strap | Stainless Steel H-Link Bracelet /w Folding Clasp and Push-Button Release |
Longines Conquest 2023 Automatic Chronograph
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Of Interest
While most people are familiar with Longines’ history in aviation, it is worth noting that the brand also has a 60-year history as the official timekeeper of Grand Prix racing (1933-1992). It was Longines that timed the Grand Prix de Monaco during the inaugural year of Formula 1 in 1950, as well as races in Barcelona, Buenos Aires, Bern, Zandvoort, Melbourne, and Spa-Francorchamps. The brand also timed the Indy 500 and developed ground-breaking instruments like the Chronocamera and the quartz-powered Chronotypogines.
Longines also developed long-lasting relationships with the Formula 1 racing teams of Ferrari and Renault during the 1980s.
Quibbles
Perhaps in this price range, a column-wheel movement such as the L688.2 used in the Avigation Big Eye, might have been a better move. Also, I continue to cross my fingers for an on-the-fly micro-adjusting clasp.
Final Thoughts
The Longines Conquest Automatic Chronograph is certainly a step up in styling from past iterations. Despite its retro appearance, however, it is a wholly new design for the brand—bearing little resemblance to the Conquest Classic Chronograph or even more recent versions of the watch. It leans heavily into the motorsport vibe with its tachymeter and pump-style pushers. The mix of ceramic on the bezel and sunray brushing on the dial looks particularly sharp. While the movement isn’t COSC-certified, like many of the latest offerings in the Spirit Collection, it is likely to be a workhorse and comes standard with Longines’ five-year warranty.
The Longines Conquest Automatic Chronograph 2023 retails for $3650USD ($4500CAD). For more information, please visit the brand website.
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About the author
Brent Robillard is a writer, educator, craftsman, and watch enthusiast. He is the author of four novels. You can follow him on Instagram.
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