Last month, Canadian entrepreneur, Edward Cho, wrapped up a successful Kickstarter campaign for his newly minted brand of watches, Fleux. The FLX001 and FLX002 are both 60s-inspired skindivers with a lot of shared DNA, but that ultimately differentiate themselves through their dials and bezels. Echoes of iconic divers from the era are present in both designs—Squale, Omega, perhaps a little Blancpain. And ultimately, I think the blend works well.
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The case, in particular, is almost archetypal. The squared off strap recess and elegant downward sloping lugs—originally popularized by casemakers like Squale and later Seiko—offer up a familiar silhouette. Fashioned from 316L stainless steel, the watch is largely brushed—circularly along the top of the case and horizontally over the sides. However, there is a slim chamfer of polish running along the upper edge from lug tip to lug tip which adds a touch of class.
The case is more-or-less vintage-sized at 38mm in diameter and a restrained 47mm in length. But due, in part, to the warm double-domed Hesalite crystal, the watch wears little thicker at 14mm. The acrylic crystal was a good choice, I think, and certainly plays up the vintage styling. It also affords pleasant distortions at the edges of the dial when viewed at angles. Nonetheless, contemporary additions, like a screwed down crown and case back, provide the watch with a water resistance rating of 200m.
The FLX001 leans into its retro charm with a referential nod to the early 60s that comes in the form of its bezel. While the bezel insert on the Fleux is aluminum, it has been finished to reflect the bakelite material used in pieces like the Omega SM300, complete with a countdown scale similar to that used in the CK2913. The bezel itself is friction-operated and bidirectional with a nicely machined coin edge finish.
For its part, the FLX002 is much more reminiscent of the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms—specifically the “3H Bund,” issued to the West German Bundeswehr Kampfschwimmers during the 1970s (a special branch of the German Navy). Contemporary watchmakers like Unimatic have also adopted the singular pip, which is meant to track elapsed hours rather than minutes.
The dial of the FLX001 employs raised, oversized circular plots on the hours with an inverted triangle at 12. Whereas the FLX002 opts for what has become known since the 1980s as a California dial but has been in use since the 1930s. Rolex originally dubbed the layout—featuring Roman numerals in the top half of the dial and Arabics in the bottom—as “Error Proof.” Today the design is often associated with Panerai.
Both the FLX001 and the FLX002 use gilt-styled printing in the chapter ring over matte black backgrounds. They also share a handset that is quintessential skindiver, found in Blancpain’s aforementioned 3H Bund, but also in several Squales. The bold pencil-styled handset with its two tones, is highly legible—as are the plots and numerals on either dial, despite their aged appearance. The C3 Super-LumiNova is “Old Radium Lume,” and offers a particularly vintage appeal.
Both the Fleux FLX001 and FLX002 are powered by the NH38A. It vibrates at 21,600bph and provides a 41-hour power reserve.
Both references are also paired with SEAQUAL straps. The material on the upper side is recycled ocean plastic, softened by a water-resistant Nubuck lining underneath. The straps come equipped quick-release spring bars.
SPECS
Case | 316L Stainless Steel 38mm Diameter 47mm Lug to Lug 14mm Thick 20mm Lug Width Bidirectional Friction Bezel Screw Down Crown & Case Back 200m Water Resistance |
Dial & Crystal | Domed Hesalite Crystal Matte Black Dial Raised Markers Pencil Handset C3 “Old Radium” Super-LumiNova |
Movement | Seiko NH38A 24 Jewels 21 600bph 41-Hour Power Reserve |
Strap | SEAQUAL Strap |
Fleux Skindiver (FLX001/002)
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Of Interest
Despite its more limited functionality—at least in terms of its dive capabilities—the FLX002, with its Cali-dial and sterile bezel really speaks to me. While neither would necessarily be my go-to as an actual diver, the elevated, streamlined styling of the FLX002 makes for a charming desk diver. It looks great paired with a T-shirt, as well, and would be a nice summertime weekender at a pool party or a casual gathering. The FLX001 and the FLX002 will come individually numbered to 300.
Quibbles
I love the strap offering here. I like the contribution to sustainability, for sure, but the SEAQUAL is also comfortable and attractive and very much like sailcloth. However, the Nubuck liner is not convenient for swimming or for watersports. I’d like to see a NATO option, even as an add on.
Final Thoughts
Just above six on the dial of both the FLX001 and the FLX002 there is a simple rendering of a dive flag. It reminds me of something that might have been printed on any number of department store skindivers from the early mid-century. By the mid-sixties just about every brand–big and small–had one on offer. Silvana. Elgin. Bulova. Technos. Wittnauer. Wakmann. Even Sears Roebuck had the Tradition. Each of them was a variation on a theme–charming and sporty with a hint of fun. Fleux has managed to capture that vibe with the FLX models.
The Fleux FLX001/002 are available now for pre-order at $449USD. For more information, please visit the brand website.
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About the author
Brent Robillard is a writer, educator, craftsman, and watch enthusiast. He is the author of four novels. You can follow him on Instagram.
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Saw these from before they launched the Kickstarter campaign. The design languages used in these FLX001 & 002 are lovely!
Lovely is the perfect descriptor
The mixed numeral variations on the California dial just…works? Not to mention the contrast of black and orange!!
I think so, too. Cheers
This is really cool. It has such a clean look to it and a lot of watch for not a whole lot of money. I’m not particularly fond of California dials most of the time but that one is done nicely. Thanks for the introduction to the brand
Glad you like it. I don’t think I paid much attention to the Cali-dial before this either. Just has a classy look here
I see the romance in this piece it’s simple clean line’s definitely give off vintage vibes and reminds me a little of vintage O & W . As a serious diver it is not… But I love the fact it has some unique offerings, this means Edward is willing to think outside the box. So I will keep an eye out for future offerings because they are bound to improve with time.
Thanks for weighing in, Todd!